DCS Outdoor Grills

A DCS grill sits at the center of most outdoor kitchens we visit around San Francisco, Oakland and the Peninsula. Some are built into masonry or steel islands, others roll on a cart, and the lineup spans two generations of design. This guide sorts out which grill you own, where to find its label, what tends to fail and what you can safely check yourself. For the repair process itself, see DCS outdoor grill repair.

How the grill lineup is organized

Series 9 built-in grills carry model numbers that begin with BE1, and Series 7 built-ins begin with BH1. The number after the prefix is the cooking width in inches, and a trailing -L means the grill is set up for propane, while -N means natural gas. Within Series 9 the models include the BE1-30AG-L, a 30-inch all grill, plus the BE1-36C-L and BE1-48C-L at 36 and 48 inches. Series 7 includes the BGC30-BQ-L at 30 inches, the BH1-36-L and the BH1-48-L. All of these are propane versions and are still sold new.

Older BG and BGA grills also come through our schedule, such as the BG27-BQRN, the BG36-BQARN, the BG48-BQRN and the BGA26-BQ. Their fuel letters are part of the model name, which is one more reason to read the label before ordering any part.

Finding the model label

The data plate is usually under the control panel, on the firebox, or near the drip tray area, and sometimes you need to pull the tray or open the access door to read it. Photograph the plate and the serial number in good light. If the island was built around the grill, the label may be hard to reach, so a photo of the full front and the control knobs also helps us narrow things down. A short walk-through is in how to find your DCS model number.

Problems we see most

• Burners that click but never catch, or light on one side only.
• A flame that stays small even with the knob on high, or burns yellow and lazy.
• Hot spots and cold zones across the cooking surface.
• Rotisserie motors that stall or will not turn, and lights that no longer come on.
• Knobs that feel loose or stiff, and igniters that sit wet after fog or rain.

Salt air near the ocean and the Bay speeds up corrosion on igniter electrodes, burner ports and wiring, and spiders and grease buildup can block the small openings that carry gas to the flame. Our troubleshooting articles on a grill that will not ignite, uneven heat and a low flame on high walk through each symptom.

Safe checks you can do yourself

1. On a propane grill, close the tank valve first, then confirm the tank is not empty and reopen it slowly.
2. Make sure any natural gas shutoff to the island is in the open position.
3. Check that the battery or outlet powering the igniter is working, and that the outdoor GFCI outlet has not tripped.
4. Clean grease and debris from the grates and drip tray when everything is cold.
5. Never light the grill with the lid closed, and do not hold a match near a burner that did not light.

If you smell gas, leave the area, avoid switches, and call the gas utility or 911 from a safe distance. Burning smells or sparks mean power off at the breaker. Do not open panels or touch gas fittings.

Next steps

When the checks do not solve it, book a visit through the grill repair service page. A technician diagnoses first, you receive a written estimate, and nothing is repaired until you approve it.

Frequently asked questions